2002 Monaco Turbo Boost Gauge Read Anything When Just Idling

Gremo87 · 128 2 Mar 14, 2013 Decatur, Illinois

[Everything I know virtually the car is in my contour]

Runs on E85 w/Link, speed density, HKS cams (specs unknown), Evo Iii 16G with noticable shaft play (in/out, side/side, and up/down) and more. Engine rebuilt less than 3500 miles ago. (0.020" overbore)

Symptoms:

- Boost gauge (aftermarket) reads almost 3 in. Hg at idle - this is the same value it reads when the motorcar is off. Vacuum will increase while driving, and boost gauge seems authentic - I can even so hit 22+psi, simply it takes a hell of a lot longer to get in that location...and just doesn't feel the same.

- Difficult cold starts and will die at least twice before warming upwards a little (125F on approximate) after which it will stay running

- Unstable idle - will go back and forth between stable and unstable, right RPM and so not (spikes and dips)

- Sometimes while driving it will idle a little high after I've pushed the clutch pedal in when coming to a end, and then idle will drop to more than appropriate RPM afterwards coming to a complete stop.

- Slow spooling (full boost at like 4500+)

I found a couple small leaks with a boost leak examination and fixed those - they made no difference. System will hit 25psi and gradually decline from there. I can hear hissing when I open the oil cap during the BLT. I saw someone say that could be the PCV valve. (if not rings or valve seals) I know information technology's cheap to notice out if that's the culprit, simply I'k posting here beginning because I'yard low on money. Does this problem scream annihilation else to anybody?

I accept logs, simply I oasis't completed the checklist for posting logs (don't have timing calorie-free however, haven't done compression test still, etc). If anyone'southward interested in seeing a couple merely lemme know and I'll throw i up.

pauleyman · 7,445 two,282 November 19, 2011 oklahoma city, Oklahoma

Did you lot check mechanical timing?

DamnSexyMachines · i 0 Jul 12, 2015 Mississauga, ON_Canada

I have been having the same trouble with my GST besides..

- Unstable idle - volition go dorsum and forth between stable and unstable, correct RPM and and so not (spikes and dips)

- Sometimes while driving it will idle a piffling high after I've pushed the clutch pedal in when coming to a end, and then idle will drop to more advisable RPM afterwards coming to a consummate cease.

- Slow spooling (total boost at like 4500+)

i just recently bought mine and off the bat i felt like it was lacking in ability Particularly at rpms lower than 4000....if anybody can help u.s. out that'd exist really appreciated..Thanks

PlanZero · Jul 12, 2015

I'thousand non sure if this helps, but I had a bad isc/iac on both of my Tsis. On one, I would but get an occasional high idle and I would conform the BISS to fix it. Eventually I got a CEL, merely the IAC nonetheless never tested bad.
On the other, I started to go high/ fluctuating idle and bike hop, and one of the IAC coils tested bad, but no CEL.
I establish the upgraded (black) IAC off a stealth for $30 off eBay and noticed a huge comeback.

Also, to the OP I would test or replace your Coolant temp sensor. I had similar issues before replacing mine. And a pcv valve should have been replaced when you did a regular tune up. These two things will cost you $xv-20. Besides, has the approximate always read the vacuum at -five? It should be -xv-twenty, and at 0 if the car is off. I presume you lot oasis't owned this car for long, so information technology could be a faulty guess, or it's not hooked up properly.

motomattx · iii,599 one,394 Dec 9, 2010 wampum, Pennsylvania

I hold with checking that your timing belt hasnt slipped or that your timing is merely non flat out off past a tooth or and so.

Archer Fabrications · 9,969 993 May 9, 2011 Scottsdale, Arizona

Well from what you said I'd rebuild the turbo it's pretty easy merely keep everything nice and clean. Practise you lot observe any rubbing if y'all look at the compressor cover? Improve to see if yous removed it.

yhype

Sounds like yous should check your timing belt marks still line upwards, non enough engine vacuum is a issue of low pinch for one reason or some other, or very high elevator cam(s).

Gremo87 · Jul 12, 2015

I oasis't had a gamble to work more on the motorcar this weekend simply tomorrow I'm planning to practice pinch exam, cheque mechanical timing, investigate boost gauge (considering every bit I said it sits dead solid at three in.HG both at idle and when the car is off...seems odd to me), and figure out whether my ISC is working correctly or not.

I wish I could say I knew what the vacuum reading was when I bought the car (less than a month agone) but I can't.

Mechanical timing - I haven't been home to check my manuals this weekend and oasis't establish much in the way of how to check mechanical timing on the internet, but enough of talk most the whole timing belt procedure. I understand that the marks on the cam gears are supposed to line up (with piston one at TDC) just is there whatever fashion to check the lower ones without having to take out the motor mountain and jack the engine up?

Likewise - a new turbo or rebuild is definitely in the future, and I'll expect into checking/replacing the coolant temp sensor.

Thanks all~

steve

Sounds like y'all going off some aftermarket boost judge or worse based on the factory estimate. Double check with another vacuum gauge earlier ripping things autonomously. The lines to after market boost gauges have been know to plummet under vacuum and the factory gauge is based on MAF and load readings driven by the ECU.

DamnSexyMachines feel free to proceed reading this thread just open up your own thread for your bug. This is Gremo87 's thread.

Gremo87 · 128 2 Mar 14, 2013 Decatur, Illinois

Yep I'one thousand going off of an aftermarket boost gauge. The gauge has no problem hitting 15+/- in.hg while driving, but yeah information technology'd exist squeamish to go a second reading at idle - I'll see if I can rent a vacuum gauge at the parts store later.

Gremo87 · Jul xiii, 2015

Likewise - car dies immediately when I use Link to ground the timing and diagnostic pins. It can handle 1 or the other existence grounded, but not both.

Does that hateful annihilation to anyone?

I'll be working on the auto after work today and so I'll report back with more than info after.

Gremo87 · Jul 13, 2015

I come with news.

- The ISC seems to exist dead. (multimeter displays same affair for all four coils - the same affair as when I bear on the probes together)

- The plug for the coolant temp sensor appears to have 10v when it should have 4.five - 4.ix.

- Then when I tested resistance at the sensor itself, I get the same thing as when I affect the probes together.

What are the chances of both things I'thousand testing resistance on being bad and giving the same result as touching the probes together? Is my meter suspect here?

Gremo87 · Jul fourteen, 2015

Major Update :

The boost gauge used a vacuum nipple on the throttle body, which sees no vacuum at idle - I T'd it into the FPR line and I now encounter fourteen-xv in. HG at idle. When I rev it, it goes upwards to 20-21. When I agree the engine steady at 3500 RPM, vacuum is at 21 and then spikes to 25 when I let off. (then sinks dorsum to 14-xv at idle)

And then is 14-fifteen at idle ok for a motor with cams? (of unknown lift/duration, unfortunately - just know they're HKS)

It doesn't idle the all-time, and it's obvious that when the idle is smoothest it's at 15, simply wavers...so maybe once the idle is ameliorate (tuned..?) it will exist making fifty-fifty more vacuum....(?)

2002 Monaco Turbo Boost Gauge Read Anything When Just Idling

The Top DSM Community on the Web

Join the Community!

Low (3 in. hg) vacuum at idle, slow spooling, loss of power, hard cold starts; BLT performed....

Like threads

0 Response to "2002 Monaco Turbo Boost Gauge Read Anything When Just Idling"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel